Exhausted after hours of planning, buying, hauling and stowing provisions and equipment, we cajoled DreamWeaver off the dock late afternoon on May 18. She was sluggish from the weight of full water and fuel tanks, and weeks worth of provisions. The short shakedown cruise from Ladysmith to Nanaimo revealed no issues; short of a constant worry about what we may have forgotten. And of course we did - the Ipod, which happily turned up two days later.
From Nanaimo we rendezvous-ed with Bob & Helen aboard Melody at 0700 and motored across the Salish Sea where the Sea gods, Salish ones in this case, blessed us with sunny skies and light NW winds. However, one rule of the sea is that no matter which direction you travel, the wind blows against you - the Sea God of Contrarian Direction. Motoring against the wind is much faster than tacking into it, but is hard on the crew and boat. Amani hates the slap of the boat against the waves and cowers in the aft cabin until she hears the silence of the engine.
We anchored for a quiet night in Sturt Bay, Texada Island. Off to the pub for a good brew, burger and social time with Bob & Helen, as well as discuss our plans for the next few days. This is really about deciding where to get to each day and which routes to follow - all dependent on weather and sea conditions present. Of course you can plan and schedule all you want but the decision always rests with the sea.
We awoke to calm seas, clear skies, and summer-like temperatures. We headed north to Francis Bay, Raza Island where we settled for the night awaiting slack in the morning. As we sat in the our cockpit enjoying the warm temperatures, we watched as 3 eagles swooped down; one to grab a juicy red snapper out of the water. Another struggled to get out of the water after failing to get its chosen prey, to be seen afterwards drying its wings before the sinking sun. It's scenes like this we do this for.
Transiting Rapids
The general rule is to transit fast flowing rapids only at “slack water”, when currents stop flowing briefly. In this case there are 5 sets of rapids. The first, Yuculta, is taken 30 minutes before slack just before the current changes to an ebb tide, meaning you will then be going with the current. This gets you through very fast but gives more control of the boat over to silent prayer. The second set, Gillard Passage, is 10 minutes further – perfect! The 3rd and worst one is 30 minutes farther but the timing is good and the current is nicely with us. The challenge is the 4th, 2 hours away and flowing fast at 5 knots when we arrive. On the ebb tide we go for it, and hurtle through at 10 knots, bucking the violent twists and pulls of the swirling water. Two hours further is Whirlpool Rapids but it is slack water again and we are safety through.
Grumpy Johnstone Strait
Most boats stay the night at this point in Forward Harbour, waiting to see what morning will bring before heading out onto “the Strait”. Getting through “the Strait” to northern waters has 2 routes – straight up the strait if weather is good, or through the “back door”, a series of channels that hug the mainland, longer but protected.We plowed on and made it through until Port Nelville before “the Strait” lived up to expectations and forced us in with increasing head winds and high waves. By now the expected cloud and rain began.
The next morning we went straight up, avoiding the longer route, and were blessed with calm seas and sunshine by early afternoon. Staying at dock that night was a well-earned reward for a fast passage north, as well as a chance to replace a forgotten pepper grinder. Melody invited us aboard for seafood chowder and good company.
We are now 180 miles into the journey and only have 820 miles in front of us to reach Glacier Bay. Oh my! But we feel like we have come home when we are on the seas. Our vagabond natures come out and we find a simple rhythm in our daily lives.
